I spent a week in Key West and the days and nights were so filled to the brim with light and energy, silence and cacophony, crowded corners and wide open spaces, such a convivial juxtaposition of opposites that at times it overwhelmed but for the most part, inspired. The conundrum then was how to write about such a place. The town of Key West is a rogue outlier, known affectionately by a variety of monikers: Cayo Hueso, the original Spanish name(translated to Isle of Bones!), The Last Resort, or the freewheeling Conch Republic. I look back on my time here in snapshots, vignettes that tell a simple story though the lens of my singular experience. The guidebooks will push you to be the tourist, to haunt the well-trodden places. I hope to show you a different place.
A CAST OF CHARACTERS(ALIVE OR DEAD)
Key West is a town that, over the decades has drawn the artist, the fisherman, the sailor, the writer, the entrepreneur, the con man and the ne’er do well. It was the first stop and the last stop. The hope and the downfall. A place where the refined mixed with the gypsy. Theres something for every taste here, solace and balm for whatever desire tugs at your soul. Possibly due to it’s isolation, there is a definitive anything goes atmosphere, a tacit acceptance of eccentrics of all kinds. This is a place where rusty beach cruisers are the preferred mode of transport, so beloved they are ornamented with all manners of sundry; beads, flowers, doll heads. They even have pet names like Jennifer or Shirley. It quickly became my favorite thing about this small town. We could ride our bike to the coffee shop, the theatre, the beach or Mallory Square. Riding one’s bike home after a night on the town through the quiet streets and sultry salt air is one of those keeper moments.
You meet all kinds of characters on your wanderings in Key West. We spent an afternoon watching the sunset on an offshore island called Christmas Island(or Wisteria Island) adjacent to the Wisteria shipwreck. Apparently, there is a small tent city on the interior of the island where squatters had set up their homes, a commune of sorts. We met a few of these tenants walking the shoreline, they were friendly enough and seemed busy collecting driftwood. Although it gave me yet another reason to be glad I was not staying on the Amba, anchored close by. Another fellow we met was beach-combing with his small daughter. He had motored over on his dinghy and was traveling the world in a catamaran, classic story. Sold everything to live the nomadic life with his wife and 6 year old in tow. She was a curious little thing, enamored with the hermit crabs her dad was letting crawl all over him.
One early morning we went on a tour of the Key West Cemetery, a fascinating and atmospheric place smack dab in the center of Old Town. It has recently been spruced up since the last hurricane hit and made a further mess of an already dilapidated place. While roosters and iguanas still roam the narrow paths, headstones are being uprighted, weeds are being removed and concrete patched. The cemetery was founded in 1847 after a wicked hurricane the previous year washed away the old cemetery, scattering the dead. As a result, the oldest gravestones — built on the highest point in Key West — are actually older than the cemetery itself. They date to 1829 and 1843 and were moved here after the hurricane. The Historic Florida Keys Foundation offers walking tours of the cemetery twice a week for a small fee. There are few trees in the cemetery and most graves are in above-ground vaults like in New Orleans, and for the same reason — the high water table. During the stroll, small groups of visitors are escorted to gravesites where interpreters tell the stories of the deceased in brief monologues. I was struck by the sincerity and solemn commitment of the volunteer docents to sharing the lives of these colorful characters. We listened to tales about Ellen Russell Mallory, the “First Lady” of Key West and Sandy Cornish, who mutilated his body to render himself useless as a slave, defending his status as a free man.
That same afternoon we visited the West Martello Tower. This historic tower was built in 1862 during the Civil War and is one of three remaining Civil War era structures on the island. Although it was often used for target practice by the United States Navy, the fort was never actually involved in a battle. When the tower was threatened by demolition, the Key West Garden Club stepped in to preserve the historic site. It was added to the National Register of Historic Places in 1976 and today serves a one-of-a-kind Key West attraction for both history and horticulture buffs. It was a nice place to escape the heat and admire the gorgeous tropical plantings. It was there that we met Martin, a volunteer Garden Club member and a treasure trove of information on the blooming succulents and tropical flora we were gazing at. I was interested in Martin’s story. For the life of me, I could not pinpoint Martin’s age, but there were several things I immediately liked about him. He was a Master Gardiner and really knew what he was talking about. He had piercing ice blue eyes, was deeply tanned and wiry. He sported a large silver Claddagh ring on his left hand and a leather chapeau atop his head. From the sounds of it he has had an interesting life path. He’s held a lifetime of jobs, including director of a dance company. I would not have guessed that one. He also designs and landscapes private gardens here in Key West and other states as well. He told me he now lives part-time off the grid in Montana. Why Montana? Those wide open spaces. I understood. A nice contrast to the close spaces of Key West.
Key West Bars are plentiful and raucous. The doors and windows are open and the strains of rock, country and blues drift down the street and meld together. Live music is everywhere and one can spend an evening be-bopping from place to place. There are some local favorites made apparent by the crowds spilling off decks and patios. One of these bands was Copper Sky, two talented musicians with a rabid and loyal fan base who travel as far as Ireland to take in their shows. Heather and Dave have an obvious rapport with the audience, with plenty of interaction and banter. My favorite place turned out to be an atmospheric little place called The Roost off Duval, tucked away down a side street. With craft cocktails and a chill vibe, we ended up closing the place down one evening. That’s where I met Sojo, a ‘cool dude’ of many talents, not the least of which was to mix a mean Old-Fashioned. I learned that many of Key West most illustrious characters have calling cards of sorts, business cards with humorous or outrageous descriptors. Sojo has lived in Key West most of his life, as does his mother and sister. He wouldn’t have it any other way.
A great way to spend a day on the water is to go fishing. Many tourists in Key West book charters months ahead and pay big bucks to spend an entire day fishing for the big catch like bonefish or tarpon. My friend Spring had booked us into something a little different. Isle Cook is a shop that sells kitchenware and wine/beer but is widely known for their wildly popular cooking classes. One of their offerings is called Hook and Cook. We joined Captain Jeremy Hackworth of Zia Charters and Chef Martha Hubbard for a once-in-a-lifetime fishing experience and cooking lesson. The day we went out was the first dead calm day in weeks which meant we could go out further to try to catch yellowtail snapper for our meal. Chef Martha Hubbard started her culinary journey in 1986 in Newport Rhode Island. She attended the New England Culinary Institute in 1988 and by 1990, she was cooking at Stars in San Francisco and Mustards in Napa Valley. “The travel bug hit” and Chef Hubbard headed to the the South Pacific and Asia for a year. I love to hear the story of a chef’s career, the places they have traveled and the influences that have shaped their cooking. We got to watch Martha prepare a beautiful fresh ceviche from the yellowtail snapper we caught that afternoon. She also prepared a gorgeous grouper with crabmeat that tasted so fresh I began to question if I could ever eat fish from the market again. Chef Martha has found a home in Key West and it’s a boon for their residents, her cooking lessons and themed meals are sold out months in advance.
The literary history of the town is legendary and celebrated. Hemingway, Tennessee Williams, and Elizabeth Bishop have all called the island home. Writers like Judy Blume and Meg Cabot reside here and the Key West Literary Seminar is a much lauded annual event that attracts award-winning and respected authors from around the world. The premier event sells out in minutes with tickets going for over $500. Of course, I had to visit the local bookstore and I was surprised to learn that up until a few short years ago, Key West did not have an existing indie bookstore. A unique collaboration between Books & Books, a highly successful bookstore in Miami and The Studios of Key West, was the brainchild of George Cooper(founder of the local Tropic Cinema) and his wife, the beloved writer and my childhood idol, Judy Blume. I was hoping to bump into Ms. Bloom while perusing books and dream of dreams, my hopes were realized! Judy is a kind, welcoming, personable woman and while I was falling all over her in admiration, she graciously showed me around the store when I shared with her that I too had owned a bookstore for 8 years. We talked for quite awhile and I was enamored of her generosity of spirit. I am always impressed by the impact locals can make by investing in the sustainability of their community. The vision of this couple paired with the many volunteers who work tirelessly to bring a wealth of culture and literature to this corner of the world enriches both resident and tourist.
BEYOND DUVAL STREET
A visit to Key West over 15 years ago left me with memories of the chaos of Duval Street and Mallory Square. My friends Peter and Spring curated a much different experience for me. They showed me a side of Key West that I fell in love with. They live in Old Town, a peaceful enclave populated by the distinctive and charming Key West cottage. Walking the neighborhoods in this area is an exercise in observing the small detail. Key West was originally developed in the 1820’s as a base for Bahamian shipwreck salvagers and US Navy ships chasing pirates. In the late 19th century, an influx of Cubans seeking fortune in cigar manufacturing arrived and the historic architecture reflects this period. Densely built, the neighborhood features many of the “cigar houses” built in that era and which have been attached to make larger homes. Whimsical and quirky decor and the prolific beauty of the natural plantings makes a stroll a visual delight. And can we talk about the orchids? The proliferation of dozens of drop dead gorgeous blooms, flowering in arrays of pale pinks and lemon yellows, cascading over picket fences and wrought-iron gates is stunning. The charming local stores, galleries, bakeries, and restaurants provide endless opportunities to shop and eat local. Another favorite thing I experienced were night walks through the quiet streets and cooling air. We ambled down narrow side alleys that dead ended into lush settings where dimly lit cottages lie hidden behind dense screens of foliage. The tinkling of fountains could be heard below the rustlings of the coastal breeze through the mango trees. Magic under the starry skies.
Music in Key West is the constant background hum. While Duval has the open air bars with dozens of live bands, we spent an evening taking in a show at the beautifully renovated Key West Theater, a performing arts center that presents top tier music, concerts, theatrical productions, comedy & variety specials and locally produced Key West events. Originally built in 1848 as the 1st Baptist Church of Key West, the building has a rich history as a church, dance club and concert venue prior to being transformed into a fully working performing arts center. We enjoyed a rollicking concert by Jefferson Starship, a thoroughly engaging romp down Memory Lane that served to remind me how old I am. Upcoming acts include Ana Popovic, Marc Broussard and the Bodeans, an eclectic line-up for all musical tastes.
The Studios of Key West, another wonderful addition to the cultural scene in Key West is a professional non-profit cultural organization celebrating its tenth year as a multidisciplinary presenter, arts center, and artist residency provider. The Studios were established in 2006, and serves as the cultural center of the arts for the area. My friend had scored tickets to the play, Undying Love, written and directed by local writer and musician, Ben Harrison. Based on a local true story and on the book of the same name, the musical is a raucous, hilarious exploration of love gone awry. Back in the 1930’s, a local radiologist steals the corpse of the woman he fell in love with(and treated!) and keeps her in his home for years. “A perverse story of obsession”, as it was described, I found myself doubling over with laughter which was a good thing because Mr. Harrison was sitting directly behind me. I got to meet him after the play and tell him how much I appreciated his work. Only in Key West, how thrilling!
A final note. On food of course, coming from someone who lives to eat. When not consuming culture, we spent our days and nights consuming amazingly prepared food. Key West has everything from white tablecloth fine dining to hole-in-the-wall eateries. I ate authentic Italian pizza, handmade pasta, fresh off the boat fish, and healthy green smoothies. I’ve compiled a list of my memorable places which I will share in the next post. Your choices are endless and varied, you can eat out every day for a month and try a new and stellar place each time. One of the best deals on the island is Happy Hour, where most restaurants offer surprisingly good deals on food and drink. You don’t have to go broke eating well.
I have to say I love the sub-tropical climate and easy vibe of Key West. From the minute I got off the plane, my pulse slowed down. There is a tranquility, a slowness that creeps into your psyche and inhabits the recesses of your anxiety-ridden brain. The effect is almost immediate. The mind expands, like the tendrils of the creeping orchid reaching out to grow and bloom. Perspective changes and life looks rosier. Being outside again is deeply satisfying, listening to the birds, the rain, the laughter of bikers skirting past. My mind felt like a tight flower bud that had been fed and watered and my petals slowly unfolded, opening to the energy of the sun, drinking in the briny air. As the layers of clothes came peeling off, so did the clouds in my head peel away, dull and blunted brain cells in remission from the Michigan winter. Not to knock my home state, but I go dormant in the winter months. There is a dullness around the edges, as if I see everything through a colorless lens. Here, the world is imbued with vibrancy and the evening air is like a mothers cool palm against your forehead. A panacea, a cure for whatever ails you.
My deepest gratitude to Peter & Spring, for providing a beautiful and restful place to stay and for curating such unique Key West experiences. And a shoutout to Ronnie, my partner in my airbnb disaster, we made the most of it and you made it FUN. Thanks for sticking around!