“The desert wears… a veil of mystery. Motionless and silent it evokes in us an elusive hint of something unknown, unknowable, about to be revealed.”-Edward Abbey
We had debated whether to camp inside the park or outside. Camping at Joshua Tree is a hugely popular activity, the weather at this time of the year is ideal and that means the weekends are jammed. The camp sites inside the boundaries of the park are first come first serve which means we had a good shot at camping inside if we show up early on Monday morning. We decided to book at a campground that took reservations for one night right outside the park, Black Rock Campground.
I had been anticipating camping at Joshua Tree for some time. The place where the Mojave & Colorado desert meet is fascinating in its unique diversity of plants and geology. I had heard that it was perfect camping conditions too; dry, sunny, warm mornings, cool nights. We pulled into Black Rock in the early afternoon, the site I had reserved was scenic beyond expectations. I was stoked, booking a site based on a tiny thumbnail photo is always sketchy. The space was surprisingly roomy, framed by two healthy Joshua Trees on a plateau that afforded a panoramic view over the valley and the mountains in the distance. Another cool thing about this campground is that there is a ranger station on sight. At the start of our trip, we relied more on books and maps to plan out hikes. We quickly came to realize that rangers are seasoned and reliable resources so the first thing we did was consult the ranger about best hikes in the area. Turns out, there were several terrific day hikes right from our campground. We had decided to cook a big pot of chili so it would last us several nights. I also made grilled chicken and israeli couscous for our trail lunches (It’s become our go-to meals). As the light began to wane, the sun fading behind the mountain behind us lit up the sky with a fiery display. The shadows of the spiny leaves of the Joshua Tree transformed into intricate sculptural spindles. In the corner of my eye I saw a figure pass through our campground in the twilight. Two coyotes trotted silently past, pausing to look at us and continuing on. That night, we would be awakened(and every night thereafter) by the lonely chorus of a pack of wolves so close to our camper it sent chills down my spine as I lay there transfixed.
With the daylight savings, the nights grew a deep shade of dark by 5:30pm. There are no streetlights and the ambient light is minimal so the night skies here are renowned for their stargazing. Mark would light a fire and when the embers would burn down, I would lie with my head back and stare upwards until the stars would emerge in detail, the misty milky way creating a film of light directly above me. Mornings dawned bright and warm by 5:45am. Cactus wrens would welcome our sleepy eyes and bed hair with playful chirps, hopping around the picnic table and chairs. We sat watching the sun brighten the white spines of the chollo cactus and the golden sagebrush. I’ll think of these idyllic dry desert mornings come winter in Michigan.
On our first drive through Joshua Tree, the air was crisp with azure skies. There are two wonderful things about this national park. First, is the namesake Joshua Tree, named by the Mormons when they settled here. Seussian and surreal, it is actually a member of the yucca family, a desert cactus not a tree. It reminded them of the biblical Joshua, arms outstretched in supplication, a harbinger of encouragement to keep moving westward. The high desert is a story of survival and the Joshua Tree, ugly and harsh in its appearance, is a thing of beauty when you understand its role in the ecosystem of the Mojave. It harbors all manners of insects and birds, home to a wide cross section of animals. Secondly, the massive jumbo rocks that are scattered like children’s building blocks throughout the desert are surprising and delightful. The rocks are prime climbing habitat for those crazy risk-taking rock climbers and for the rest of us they call us to be children again, scrambling and jumping from rock to rock, finding high perches and peering into hidden crevasses. A hike through this desert landscape is a study in texture and form. The hikes from our campground afforded us a walk through the entire ecosystem of the desert, it’s a microclimate where plant and animal species thrive. Cactus like the Yucca, Parry Nolina, and Ocatillo exist side by side with the Pinon Pine, mormon tea, and Juniper Trees.
We made the decision to stay at Black Rock Campground for the week, the drive into the park was minimal and we developed a fondness for our site and the relative peace and quiet of our space. Each day we would get to Joshua Tree early so as to bag a few hikes before noon. The hikes here are for the most part short but geologically interesting with a few incongruous surprises thrown in. Jumbo Rocks is the classic hike, a path that meanders through the giant blocks. We also enjoyed an interesting hike through the Wonderland of Rocks(yes! its really called that) out to an abandoned mine where old rusted cars and machinery were scattered throughout the desert, creating a scene out of a post-apocalyptic film. The juxtaposition of the dilapidated hulks with the greenery of the cactus was caused me to think about humanity’s lasting impact on the natural world. Another trek we loved was the 49 Palms Oasis Trail. A dry and exposed path over a high mountain descends into a valley where there exists an astonishing sight, a mirage; a grouping of gorgeous greenery, towering California Desert Fan palms thriving in the dry hot desert. Apparently, an underground spring is the source of this wondrous spectacle. Finally, we hiked into an old dam built by a rancher by the name of Barker in the early 1900’s. The park’s only lake exists here, drawing all kinds of migratory birds. The setting is especially scenic due to the sheer monzonite granite cliffs rising up on all sides of the lake. These are the last vestiges of man-made design, reminders of a bygone time when settlers attempted to conquer the desert and eke out a living, whether it be ranching or mining.
On our fourth day, we had visitors! Our old traveling buddies from Michigan, Keith & Sue happened to be in California doing their own road trip and our paths crossed. We have travelled with our friends before, to Cambodia, Vietnam and a Caribbean island. It had been awhile though, and we were thrilled they could join us for a few days here. Keith & Sue were able to rent an airbnb just a mile from the campground, lucky for us. A hot shower and much needed laundry were made possible thanks to the generosity of our buddies. We were very excited to share the camaraderie of easy friendship over the next few days. Keith & Sue are like family without the sometimes freighted history that comes with siblings. We spent a few days exploring a few more hikes, scrambling among the rocks, sitting around the campfire enjoying much laughter and conversation.
My time in the desert quieted my mind and uncovered both time and desire to notice the infinitesimal details; the deep crenelations in the mature bark of a Joshua Tree, the bluish silver starbursts of the chollo cactus needles, the dusty gold buds of the sagebrush. Not everyone loves the desert, it’s so dry my nose bled daily. Dust finds it way into your mouth and behind your ears. The heat can drive you indoors seeking shade and shelter. Yet for me, the fact that the desert is very much alive, that you have to look beyond the harshness to a deeper reality, one that celebrates and honors tenacity and perserverance is deeply hopeful and inspiring. There are lessons for my own life in the daily struggle for survival here. I know that I must return for the beautiful display of spring wildflowers on the fields of cacti. Is there no better metaphor for what we seek in life?
