Leaving Austin early on a Saturday morning, I quickly discovered that our plan to make a few quick stops in the Hill Country outside Austin on our way south was nearly impossible. There was so much to do and we had luckily timed our meander through this verdant part of Texas with the Spring wildflower bloom. As you make your way out of the Austin confines, the road narrows and begins to undulate through gentle rolling hills, explosions of color line the grassy medians and vistas begin to open up. Wineries beckon down every side road and we couldn’t resist, even though it was early morning. We made three stops: at a winery, at Lyndon Baines Johnson’s National Park and Ranch, and in Fredericksburg, where you could spend a 3-day weekend and never get bored. My favorite detour was the Willow City Loop, a 12-mile foray west of Fredericksburg and into the bucolic ranch lands where cattle roam and a profusion of wildflowers bloom in fields that stretch to the horizon. The loop is a 13 mile one-lane macadam that twists and turns, rises and falls through a pastoral wonderland of color. Waving mobs of Texas bluebonnets, Indian Blankets, sunny yellow buttercups, and prairie verbena greeted us around every bend in the road. I wanted to lay down and let butterflies land on my nose and birds sing me into a languid stupor. Seriously, it was that beautiful, it made the corny poet in me spew out metaphors until I drove my husband nutty. The stop at LBJ’s ranch(known as the Texas White House during his Presidential tenure) was no less inspiring. Set aways down a long isolated road, we visited the grave of our 36th president and his wife and family. Set under the shade of several live oaks, it was a peaceful final resting place.
Six hours later, under a vast blue sky we rolled into the two block town of Marathon. It was late afternoon, and the sun was still high in the sky so after we checked in we decided to explore. The Gage Hotel IS the town. A beautiful old grande dame of hotels, its stately presence on the main road entices the weary traveler as if to a mirage in the desert. Too good to be true. The cool respite of the lobby, the classic western themed bar, The White Buffalo, the blue waters of the in ground pool, all combine to create a idylic reprieve from the road. We had booked a free-standing adobe home across the street that was part of the hotel. It was private and adjacent to a stunning surprise.
The Gage Gardens are formal laid out gardens with sculpture and wisteria laden arches, small barn structures, ponds and little stone pathways that lead to hidden flower igloos. I felt like a kid again, skipping down the pathway through my own secret garden, wondering what bewitching thing would be around the bend. The prize visual was at the back of the garden where dozens of rose bushes in full bloom were arranged around concentric pebbled walkways. And did I mention this little garden of delights was free? And there was no one else there. Not the five times I revisited in the 24 hours we stayed here. The small patio off our bedroom showcased a veritable who’s who of birds. This part of Texas is on the Central Flyway and in the morning I while I sipped my tea, I spotted over 20 species of birds, including the splendid little Vermillion Flycatcher fluttering playfully above my head. My bird nerdiness was on full display as I clapped my hands with glee. I was to meet several fellow bird lovers on my travels in Big Bend. They are a particular breed, I could always rely on their exacting knowledge to identify my blurry bird photos. Apparently, the playful red bird was a coveted sighting.
The meal we ate that evening was exquisite, made better by the remoteness of the location, dining outdoors with the twang and lilt of a solo country boy strumming his acoustic guitar. I fell in love with this beguiling little town. In the morning, after my early morning bird watching session, we strolled back across the street to visit the lone coffee shop(avocado toast, please) and pop in and out of the bookstore, a western wear shop, and the James Evan’s gallery. Luckily, the artist photographer was in residence and we got to talking. Turns out Mr. Evans was born in Camden, NJ, my own birthplace. The bond was immediate and we fell to reminiscing about the old hometown movie theatre on Westfield Avenue. I love when two disparate lives collide like that, the synchronicity makes me giddy. Of course, I had to purchase a print from the accomplished photographer. He signed his beautiful coffee table book titled Big Bend as well. After a stop at the small grocery in town(billed as a mini Whole Foods, not quite but still a decent surprise considering) and we knew we had to stop in at the local brewery that was celebrating its one year anniversary. We had bought sandwiches to go at the grocery but the staff was so incredulous that we were not planning to sample their BBQ that I felt compelled to order some brisket and sides. Boy, was I glad I did. Vault Brewery had apparently been named in the top 25 BBQ in Texas by Texas monthly. How that got past my travel radar, I do not know but I was grateful for their persistence.
After spending the morning in Marathon and vowing to come back some day and spend a week here, we turned the car south towards big Bend and Terlingua, where our airbnb awaited. Choice of accommodations in Big Bend are limited. Staying in the park is convenient but options for dining and other nocturnal activities are limited. I had heard about a small town a ten minute drive from the western entrance called Terlingua, home to eighty residents and a few newish airbnbs owned by a company called Basecamp Terlingua. I reserved one of their adobe cottages for four nights. Terlingua ghost town was a five minute drive down the road and I’d heard if you were looking for good food, stiff drinks and a cast of characters out of a Wes Anderson film, this was the place to hang out in the evenings. Having no idea what to expect, I was hoping for more then empty storefronts and mangy dogs wandering a dusty street.
NEXT UP: BIG BEND: SPIDERS, DARK SKIES, & A GHOST TOWN