You know the scenario. Everybody has a story. You plan for months, plunk down some serious cash for flights, reserve fun excursions, purchase the requisite island bathing suit, pack a few shorts and flip-flops(because when its 80 and sunny who needs anything else?) and proceed to dream of languid blue sky days and spectacular beach-y sunsets. What you don’t plan on is rain. Oh, maybe you consider it for a slight second, since it is the tropics and all those gorgeous shades of green are obviously fueled by a healthy dose of cloud-borne water. You’d have done your homework though. YES, say the websites. It might rain on your vacation in Hawaii. And you focus on that word. (might, not rain) You check out the well-known joke of a forecast site, weather.com. Upon which viewing, panic sets in. There is a rain icon on every single effing day you are scheduled to be there. So, you start researching all kinds of travel sites and you are reassured. People in the know, locals for chrissakes, poo poo the weather.coms of the interwebs. It’s an island with mountains, NO ONE can predict all the little microclimates that exist. Sure, the north shore of Kauai is a rainy place but the showers are passing! The rain falls at night! And the showers produce camera-worthy rainbows! And if you are really obsessed about the weather, well the south shore of Kauai gets .0001 inches of rain a year, so get in the car and drive a little ways. In essence, there is nothing to worry about. Mahalo!!
Well, guess what? All of the above is nonsense. Our plane arrives in Lihue to a fleeting pinkish gold sunset on the far horizon and a massive rust colored mudslide blocking the road to our cottage in Hanalei. Apparently, it has been raining for 6 weeks straight on the island of Kauai.(and not just on the North Shore) The locals are ready to kill each other and the tourists are wandering around pale and zombie-like. There is no end in sight. What does one do in a rainy Paradise? First, you learn how to relax. I’m the type of traveller who fills every day with exciting new things, maximum adventure! Last year we came for ten days to Kauai, and I had booked a cool thing to do every other day. Helicopter over Waimea Canyon(the Grand Canyon of the Pacific)? Check. ATV Tour of a private plantation with a secret waterfall? Check. Guided hike to a remote double tiered waterfall where one could climb and jump into a crystal blue pool? Check. Catamaran ride up the stunning Napali Coast. Done. Sunsets over end of the road cliffs. Steep hikes through dense jungle to explore desolate beaches.We saw as much as we could see and still we left things on the table. That is one way to experience Kauai. We were about to experience the alternative way.
Upon return, no one really dwells on those trips that become horror shows of mist and gloom. They are like ancient mythologies or quaint folktales, we’ve all heard them but they seem taken from a page in an obsolete book. Besides, a rainy day or two is survivable, a total washout is the stuff of vacation nightmares. On day three of the low cloud ceiling and shifting mists, torrential downpours creating mini lakes on the roads and great muddy waves crashing on the beach, I dredged a memory up from my childhood that may explain my visceral aversion to a rain soaked vacation. The Jersey shore is renowned for its weather patterns, specifically low pressure systems that can set itself up off the Atlantic coast like an unwelcome guest and just refuse to leave. We called it getting socked in, and we had a few of those endless days in our precious week of the summer down the shore when I was a kid. I remember my mom praying hard every night, dragging us all to the beach in drizzle and fog, pointing to the gloom and saying, “I think it’s getting a bit brighter.” It never did.
I found myself channeling my mom on the morning of Day 5 in Kauai. I kept thinking I saw a clearing in the sky, only to have my hopes dashed. Nevertheless, I did feel a particular magic begin to envelop me. I began to ignore the weather. We put our rain jackets on(packed one at the last minute!) and went for long walks in the soft rain. We splashed around in big puddles and returned to the cottage with legs streaked with red mud. Surfers were undeterred by the mist so we walked to the pier and watched them catch waves, ghostly apparitions floating on silent walls of water. We woke to the soft sound of rain and fell asleep to the gentle patter until the world of water and wetness became a backdrop to a deep relaxation and a surprising appreciation for the mystical beauty of this place. We spent hours reading and puzzling, telling stories and laughing. Lots of laughing. And we met the locals.
A great way to meet and talk with the locals on Kauai is to hang out at any bar and buy a round of drinks. Before you know it, a round robin of drink-buying is in full swing and plates of food as well as stories and conversation are shared. That is how we met Todd and Bob. Rain or shine, Todd is the lifeguard on our local beach Pine Trees and we had noticed him in the small white hut, scanning the horizon. He was a big guy, not your typical bleach haired surfer dude, tan and lean, saver of lives. Todd was over 6’4 with dark hair and a sheepish, unassuming grin. He had a quiet demeanor unlike his buddy Bob, who was smaller in stature with a gregarious nature. Hawaiian born and bred, raised right here in Hanalei. They were an unlikely Mutt and Jeff duo. But as Bob said they were best buddies. Todd clarified that they were simpatico ‘drinking buddies’. That turned into an entire conversation about the type of friend that makes a good bar buddy. You know the kind. Chill, up for anything, always ready for a drink or two no matter the time of day, can hold their liquor for the long haul. Relevant skills for endless rainy island days.
We spoke of the crazy weather and Bob said it began to rain in January and hadn’t stopped since. He reminisced that it was like Old Hanalei, when rain would soak the coast for months at a time. Todd didn’t mind the rain or the floods, he hated the red mud, said it oozed into everything. We tried to ask him about the people he had to rescue and he modestly declined. Bob piped up that Todd had rescued many lives, that he was a local hero. We talked about the waves and the currents. The north shore of Kauai is renowned for its dangerous currents and rogue waves. The winter months typically produce major swells that experienced surfers crave but prevent the casual tourist from entering the water. That doesn’t mean they don’t. A frightening number of visitors drown every year off the north coast, even on my morning walks I give the ocean a wide berth when the swells are up. The rough surf makes for great entertainment, especially when the surf schools bring the 4-5 year old tow-headed groms(short for grommet, young surfer) out for lessons. It’s amazing to watch these little kids fearlessly master the biggest waves. The ocean was unusually calm the weeks we were there, a south trade wind was blowing and Hanalei Bay was perfect for learning to surf and wading and splashing around. When I mentioned that I liked the lagoon- like areas to swim in, at the edge of the surf right before the sandbar, Todd casually tossed out that he saw 17 sharks in that area just today from his perch. Wait, what? Was Todd pulling my leg? I didn’t think so but now my idyllic little wading pool was marred forever by visions of man-eating sharks. After all, it was right up the road off Tunnels Beach that 13 year old Bethany Hamilton had lost an arm to one in 2003.
A week went by and we had settled into a groove. We had rented a car but felt no need to go anywhere. Hanalei and the North Shore of Kauai is the most beautiful part of the island, hands down, even in the rain. Especially in the rain. The south shore, while usually drier, is more arid and desert-like. Hanalei is set in a valley surrounded by mountains dressed with tall statuesque Cook Pines, lush Hala trees, and majestic Albizia trees. The invasive Albizia tree while spectacular to look at is increasingly seen as an aggressive invader. There are so many gradient shades of green here, from the peridot-tinted lace fonds of the hapu’u tree fern to the deep emerald leaves of the Breadfruit tree. The rains had produced dozens of massive waterfalls cascading over every horizon. You could stand on the main street and marvel at the view. Taro fields surround the town and create a utopian vision of lush abundance, kayaking or paddle boarding the Hanalei River is a popular way get immersed in the halcyon surroundings. The old Hanalei one lane bridge closed down twice in that first week due to the rains and rising river level, there is a website one can refer to if you need get to the other side of the island before getting stuck. Over 5 feet and you are out of luck. The bridge is closed to anything over 15 tons anyway, so you’ll never see a tour bus in Hanalei. This remoteness lends an atmosphere of solitude and peace to the town. I can think of worse things that getting stranded on the North Shore. A few more miles down the road from Hanalei leads to some quintessential Hawaiian towns, like Haena(home to big wave surfer Laird Hamilton, frequently seen in town with his equally athletic wife, volleyball player Gabby Reece). Some terrific empty beaches lie along this route as well, Lumahai(renowned for its dangerous surf, South Pacific was filmed here), Haena State Park, Tunnels Beach(snorkeling & turtles) and at the end of the road, Ke’e Beach, a spectacular place to catch a glimpse of the rugged Napali Coast and try to catch the green flash at sunset. We took an early morning walk along this stretch of beach as the snorkeling is great here as well. As we rounded a curve, a good looking and fit older gentleman jogged by with a bright and chipper, Good Morning! I almost fell over. It was 007 himself, well, at least one version: Mr. Pierce Brosnan. It’s something I noticed about Hanalei, celebrities mix with the locals and tourists, the hippies and the surfer dudes. Ted Danson and Mary Steenbergen stand in line at the coffee shop every morning with the rest of us. Hanalei has a way of leveling the playing field.
In town, there is plenty to do. Shops & restaurants line the road. It’s a great place to purchase surf and beach wear. Come with an empty suitcase and pick up a few inexpensive items here. Yoga and Pilates are both represented with beautiful studios and there are some some wonderful art galleries, including Havaikai Oceanic & Tribal Art, a virtual museum of art collections from the countries of Oceania. The couple who own the gallery collected the one-of-a-kind items while voyaging through the Pacific on their yachts Firebird and Compadre. It’s a very authentic and unique place, Vicki will share the stories behind every piece in the gallery if you desire. Hanalei Bay itself encompasses a long stretch of gorgeous beach with picture perfect backdrop and a long cement pier ideal for hanging out to watch the surfers and paddle boarders, or watch the sunset.
There are no high-rises or rambling hotel complexes on the North Shore. Choices for accommodations are rental homes and condos. I had discovered a real treasure last year and we booked the Hanalei Surfboard House again this time. Owned and operated by Simon Potts, a retired music executive originally from England, it consists of 3 unique cottages with private lanais. Each is decorated in vintage Hawaiiana with a small kitchen and whimsical touches throughout. Cd’s from popular bands that Simon worked with in the 80’s and 90’s are available to play on the Bose. Puzzles, books and old movies are there for your downtime . The grounds are beautiful as well, with giant clam shells filled with exotic flowers, old bowling balls, small buddha and temple statuary, bird baths, gurgling fountains and giant pots filled with water lily’s. We have stayed in the Cowgirl Suite and it contains all the comforts of a home away from home. The Surfboard House is only one block from Pine Trees Beach and the singular Hanalei Bay, one can mix a gin and tonic and take to the beach for your evening sunset and the ice won’t have begun to melt! If you are lucky enough to stay while Simon is in residence, your conversations will be memorable. Simon is a natural raconteur and has some wonderful tales from his work in the industry promoting and signing some of my favorite bands from way back: Thompson Twins, Haircut 100 and The English Beat.
A word about food. We ate fresh fish every single day, ono, opa, ahi, monchong. Breakfast was made at the cottage. We discovered the excellent selection of food trucks on Day 2 and made them our go-to lunch spot. Cafe Turmeric(Indian food), and Fresh Bite (Poke/Grain Bowls) were our favorites. Trucking Delicious was a crowd favorite serving authentic Hawaiian plate lunches, we waited until our second week to try it and the lines were always too long!! Hint: get to the food trucks at 11:45 at busy times of year. Farmer’s Markets take place weekly, rotating between the small towns. Options for dinner are varied and run the gamut from bar food to pricier tapas, see my list below for recommendations.
Finally, on Day 7, we awoke to silence. The curtains were fluttering in a slight breeze. Stepping out onto the lanai, I squinted. Brilliant blue sky and bright light made everything intensely colored. I saw my shadow and giggled. The world was washed clean and people emerged from their homes staring up at the sky, as if they’d survived an apocalyptic event. Steam rose from concrete and the swirling mists on the mountains began to dissipate, revealing the stunning landscape. This was to be the first of an endless run of perfect days. We had survived. I was so glad we had decided to stay two weeks!
The interesting thing about our gloriously sunny second week in Hanalei is that we didn’t feel compelled to race to the other side of the island or go explore different beaches or go out on a boat or fly in the sky. We had moved towards the ‘way of aloha’, a term Hawaiians use to describe acquiring a certain mana, a spiritual feeling of manifesting presence in the moment. We realized we were exactly where we wanted to be and so spent our days continuing to soak up the relaxed vibe of Hanalei, this time bathed in warm tropical breezes and those imagined sultry languid nights. I love exploring new places so rarely visit the same place twice. I’m already planning my return trip to Kauai, rain or shine, I’ve found my refuge.
THE DETAILS:
Kauai is small enough to drive from end to end in a single day but traffic does exist and will slow you down. I’ve recently read a guide to Kauai in the WSJ which recommended a chaotic and busy three day tour of the island. This makes no sense at all, you would be in your car all the time. Budget at least a minimum of ten days, ideally two weeks. Choose what area you would like to stay, and use that as your base. The south side of the island is typically drier, the beaches are usually calm and the surf good for swimming(depends on the time of year though, do your research!), the east side is centrally located but more densely populated and busy, and then there is the North Shore, which I highly recommend. Either way, if you have two weeks, you may want to spend a few days on the southern end and do the sights there, then spend the rest of your time living the good life in Hanalei.
THE MUST-DO TOURIST STUFF:
Helicopter Tour: Expensive but truly spectacular. A birds-eye view of the Napali Coast and the interior waterfalls, includes the fascinating Waimea Canyon, the Grand Canyon of Hawaii. Check out this tour company we used: Blue Hawaiian
Catamaran Tour: Another way to see the Napali Coast up close and personal. If the seas are calm, the boat will enter hidden grottos and sweet snorkeling spots. Many operators to choose from/try to leave from the North Shore, much more scenic ride.
Waimea Canyon/Kokee State Park Hiking: Bring your oldest boots/sneakers and prepare to get muddy. Moderate to strenuous options, all incredibly scenic.
ATV Tour of private Plantations: opportunities to see gorgeous scenery on private lands. Some include ziplines and horseback. Check out: Kipu Ranch Adventures or Princeville Ranch Adventures
Paddle Board/Kayak Hanalei River: Idyllic float through Taro Fields. Great for birders. Kayak Hanalei
Waterfalls: Don’t miss Wailua Falls and Opaeka’a Falls, both easy access from the road. there are many incredible waterfalls accessible by longer hikes and private tours.
Mountain Bike the Wai Koa Loop Trail to the Historic Kilauea Stone Dam. Bike through 200 acres of the largest mahogany plantation in the U.S. to an idyllic and serene spot.
Botanical Gardens: Limahulu Gardens makes for a wonderful half day activity. Endangered plants, lovely landscapes, ancient terrace system and some beautiful long views over the Pacific.
Hiking the Iconic Kalalau Trail through the Napali Coast. 11 miles of switchbacks, hills and drop dead gorgeous scenery. Not for the faint of heart. Permit needed after first 2 miles.
Sunset at Kee Beach and/or the St.Regis (Get there by 5pm latest to snag a seat on the patio)
** It’s essential to reserve many of these tour prior to arriving in Kauai.
FAVORITE NORTH SHORE BEACHES:
Anini Beach Park: safest swimming spot, protected by long fringing reef.
Hanalei Bay Beach: Clocking in at around 1.2 miles, we walked this beach twice a day. Never got tired of the views, the surfers, the people-watching, the Pier.
Haena Beach Park: Beautiful wide stretch of beach with facilities and lifeguard. Surf can be rough in winter months.
Ke’e Beach: End of the road. Terminus for iconic hike as well. Gets crazy crowded, limited parking. Great for snorkeling, protected reef. Go early or later for sunset.
Tunnels: Hard to find parking, isolated but locals agree best place to snorkel.
Waiakalua: Takes a little effort to find and a 10 minute descent down a steep path. We had it all to ourself and a Hawaiian Monk Seal was sunning himself serenely while we beachcombed.
GOOD EATS:
Dukes: Our last stop before boarding the red eye flight back to the mainland. In the Marriott, close to the airport. Open air beach bar, great Happy Hour specials, excellent bartenders, and a last killer view before departure.
Wishing Well: A daily stop for the best Shaved Ice, a Hawaiian specialty, yummy acai bowls and a killer iced coffee.
Hanalei Food Trucks: There are many stellar food trucks all over the island. It’s an economical and delicious way to eat lunch and support local entrepreneurs. See above for our favorites.
The Dolphin: Our go-to spot. Definitely better at dinner. Place gets packed by 5;30 opening time. Go to the bar at 5, grab a seat. Or put your name in at hostess.. Sushi is fantastic as is the fresh caught fish. Get the Flyin’ Hawaiian, the Himachi Nigiri and a few Sake Martinis. You’ll thank me. You’ll be done in time to catch the sunset from Hanalei Pier. (They have a fresh fish market in the back if you want to cook at your condo/cottage)
Tahiti Nui: An institution. Killer Mai-tais. Chill, laid back, good for families. Small front porch. Live music and a great Luau on Wednesday evenings. Varied menu, Burgers, pizza, good healthy selections.
AMA: New in 2018, from owners of Bar Acuda. We ate here 4 times. Outdoor patio seating. Great Asian menu. Ramen, raw fish, noodle dishes, & kushiyaki skewers.
Hanalei Gourmet: A locals bar with a few tables inside and on the patio. Great place to get a cold beer(great selection of local brews) and some bar food.
Harvest Market: Organic grocery store. Be sure to check out the small to-go deli in the back. Delicious hot specials daily and a wonderful salad bar with great to-go prepared salads and wraps.
Bar Acuda: Classy happening place with tapas & a terrific wine selection, great bar, outdoor seating. This is where we met many locals.
Piazza: Up on the hill in Princeville. Italian joint with huge bar, seriously good cocktails. Can’t recommend the pizza but the other dishes are good.
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ISLAND SPECIALTIES:
Shave Ice: Block of Ice is shaved into a ball with flavored syrups over the top. Ice cream on the bottom. A daily treat.
Kahlua Pig: Shredded after cooked in underground oven. Delicious.
Poi: Paste from steamed taro root. Served with plate lunch to dip meat into. An acquired taste.
Apple Bananas: Tangy smaller version of regular banana. Good with pineapple.
Plate Lunch: Cheap and filling. Two scoop rice, macaroni salad, meat.
Saimin: Noodles in broth. Word is indigenous to Hawaii.
Lay Your Head:
Check out Trip Advisor, Kauai Vacation Rentals& Real Estate, or VRBO for tons of options for condos.
RESOURCES:
My go-to guidebooks are both chock full of insider information. Hikes and secret beaches can be hard to locate but these resources will show you the way. They also give great driving itineraries as well as honest and accurate reviews of tour guides(especially helicopter!) and restaurants.
The Ultimate Kauai Guidebook(10th Edition) By Andrew Doughty: Insider info related in an honest, in the know, conversational tone.
Kauai Trailblazer By Jerry and Janine Sprout: Drive, Bike, Hike, Snorkel Itineraries. Geared towards the active traveler.
With ALL of this information at your fingertips, I hope you will choose one or two touristy things to do, and then let it all go. Kauai is about allowing yourself to absorb the spirit of the island. The week of rain helped me to understand that. Let your days be open-ended, don’t make any plans, let your pulse slow and your heart open to the way of aloha.
Mahalo!!
