First Stop. January 2018: Boulder, Colorado.
Ok, this was an easy first choice. A. my son is moving here and I wanted to help him get set up in his new apartment and B. on our epic road trip, Mark and I completely circumvented Colorado. I’d never been to Boulder and had noticed the accolades the city had been racking up over the years. Best Retirement Town, Best Adventure Town, Friendliest City, Happiest City. You get the idea. Plus there was that oft-quoted factoid: Over 300 sunny days a year. The idea of stringing together more then 2 sunny days in a row in the month of January was nectar to my gloom-addled Michigan brain. And to top it all off, there are direct flights from GR to Denver, nature was calling from just under 3 hours away.
We arrived to a balmy 65 degree day, slightly unusual for January in Boulder. There was a general discontent over the fact that little snow had fallen yet in the mountains, at the same time there was an excited buzz at the Denver airport. Skis and snowboards were being tossed in trunks and backseats and I could hear the phrase, ‘huge snow’ being happily bantered about. We had a few days before the big storm was supposed to arrive so we planned our hikes accordingly. We made the mistake of renting a Dodge Ram, ostensibly to pick up large pieces of furniture to move in to the apartment. While trucks are great in snow, Boulder is the land of Subaru(the WEST is the land of Subaru’s), Tesla, and Prius and there is a good reason for that. Parking is at a premium downtown and at trailheads and its beneficial to have a small car.
Pearl Street, the main pedestrian walkway was buzzing with activity when we arrived. We would end up spending a lot of time strolling up and down this vibrant street lined with interesting shops and farm-to -table restaurants by the dozens, a localist’s dream come true. There were a few national brands scattered throughout, but the majority of businesses were locally-owned. I noticed a trend towards the design, manufacture and sale of local brands in some cool outdoor gear shops: Topo Designs sells colorful hand- stitched backpacks and totes and beautifully tailored flannel shirts. Mountain Standard designs their own brand of outdoor wear, rivaling the high quality and style known in larger national brands. In both cases, the proprietors were passionate about their product and walked us through their vision and history of the company. Of course, we left each store with a list of great trails and places to eat.
I got my first taste of Boulder culture while strolling Pearl Street. A fascinating array of people soaked in the afternoon sunshine, from young couples with babies in tow to Patagonia-clad outdoorsy types. Quite a few dreadlocked musicians and Tibetan bead-adorned gurus hung out on benches. U of C college kids were roaming in raucous groups and business folks in professional attire mingled throughout. At one point, a young man dressed in loose yoga pants and nothing else, walked barefoot down the street, muttering with intense focus at his car key. Everyone seemed to be indulging in a shared bliss under the bright blue sunny skies.
I was itching to hike in the adjacent mountains before the snow hit. Boulder is a town of slightly over 100,000 tucked up against the striking Flatirons, an iconic sandstone formation that rises sharp and jagged against the horizon. One can spy these moody giants looming over the town at every turn and they provide geographical context for the most directionally challenged among us. They are a beloved feature of the landscape as Boulderites recommend first hikes for the unacclimated to start here.
The best place to begin is at Chautauqua Park, a unique destination in itself. The Chautauqua Association was established in 1898 to create a cultural and educational summer retreat. A National Historic Landmark, this special place is one of only a few left in the US and the only site west of the Mississippi thats been in continuous operation since its founding. A perfectly lovely afternoon can be spent exploring its original structures, including the Missions House Lodge, the Dining Hall, General Store, and a myriad of beautifully restored cottages. When you have gotten your fill of imagining 19th c. leisurely pursuits, it’s time to pick from a handful of great hiking options from the Chautauqua Trailhead. A favorite was the short Blue Mesa Trail with spectacular views of the surrounding range and an unparalleled vista of Boulder and beyond. For a longer hike take the First-Second Flatiron, a mildly steep switchback trail that ends in a saddle between the First Flatiron and Sunset Rock. Finally, if you are up for some real huffing and puffing(and I’m speaking as a flatlander here, the altitude of 5430 ft takes a few days to acclimate to) set your sights on Royal Arch. A short(1.6RT) trail involves some steep ascents but the payoff is worth it. On subsequent days, we checked out the trails just north of town. Mt. Sanitas is hugely popular with the locals, a 3.3 mile loop trail with a doozy of a climb, over 1000 ft of elevation gain, so save this one for Day 3 or 4. The views can’t be beat though and there are boulders and steps along the way to assist you.
A worthy pursuit for a days agenda is a tour of the many excellent breweries. Coming from Michigan, I was doubtful that Colorado would rival my home state in the brew category. There are over 25 breweries in the city’s environs alone, a monumental task for any hops enthusiast in a weeks visit. I would suggest starting with Mountain Sun, the original location on Pearl Street opened in 1993. Not the oldest brewery but definitely one of the most beloved, the staff goes out of their way to welcome you and make you feel at home. If they know you are from out of town, they’ll give you some free advice on the best hiking/biking trails. The food is cheap and tasty too. To top it off, February is Stout Month, with over 30 rotating taps. Make your way next to The Post Brewing, a newish outpost for hot fried chicken and cold brews. A relaxed, cosy vibe will entice you to stay awhile. Fate Brewing(voted top 10 new US Breweries to watch in 2014) is a great spot to hang at the expansive bar and choose from over 60 taps or order the Core Sampler, twists on a light beer, a pale ale, a red ale, an IPA and a dark beer. I favored the Sudice American Stout in the sampler, slightly bitter with a nice citrusy afterglow.
You could spend all your time brew-hopping and eating some chef-driven pub food like bbq and burgers, but you would be missing out on some of the best farm to table restaurants in America. I was overwhelmed by the sheer number of uniquely branded local joints where one could partake of exquisitely prepared locally raised meats and veggies. One could eat out every day for a month and still not visit every offering. We chose most times to sit at the bar so we could talk with locals and the bartender. Boulder has the oft-noted reputation of being an incredibly friendly city. Indeed, that was our experience. From restaurant to shop to hiking path, we met an array of locals who welcomed us effusively to their town, offered suggestions on where to go and what to eat, and in one case, exchanged phone numbers in a generous offer to be a surrogate mom to my son who is relocating here. Evan and I met this lovely couple at the bar while eating dinner at Wild Standard and got to talking about our kids and how hard it can be when they move far away. By the end of the evening, Evan had made new friends and I was astounded at the generosity of strangers.
One of the more important tasks I had assigned myself this trip was to enter a marijuana dispensary, all in the name of research. Boulder legalized cannabis in 2012 and there are strict laws and regulations regarding its sale and consumption. My choice of weed shop was Native Roots, a slick, modern space located on Pearl down a flight of steps. I was expecting the old head shop ambiance of the 80’s but I was pleasantly impressed. I entered a stylish room with black and white graphics and greeted by a young man asking for my license. Upon proper documentation, I was buzzed into a slightly larger room where four glass display cases were arranged in a row with weed connoisseurs stationed behind each one. I was given a brief lesson on the benefits of Sativa(upbeat, body high) vs. Indica(lazy, chill, sleep-inducing high) followed by an introduction to edible consumption, the way of the future for those worried about the harm of inhalation and lung damage. The glass case was a literal candy-store array of gummy’s, artisan chocolate bars, and neon sour patches. It was all very professional and informative. Now, I went into Boulder with some expectations knowing it was a city of legalized marijuana. I wondered if there would be a zombie culture of stoners lolling about the parks and jamming up the streets with their slow-moving vehicles. Alas, recreational marijuana consumption is strictly forbidden and driving high is illegal, no you cannot cruise around with a joint. Despite the fact that weed is readily available, Boulder comes off as a place where health and wellness, active lifestyles and cultural and intellectual pursuits are not only valued but paramount.
The only drawback I found to Boulder was when I researched home prices. I was in for a shock. Bungalows that had sold in the late 90’s or early to mid 200os for under 400K were now priced at 6 mill and up. 6 MILL!! The overinflation of the housing market has priced out all but the wealthiest folks. That is why my son had to find an apartment 20 minutes away in Lafayette, even rentals are sky-high. All of that natural beauty and laid back atmosphere comes with a hefty price tag if you want to make Boulder your home. Luckily, there are over 2000 homes/rooms to rent on Airbnb where you can find a place to lay your head for under $100 a night. A week’s visit can be done inexpensively.
An interesting side note: Boulder closes up early. Happy Hour(3-6pm) is a hallowed tradition and affordable specials are available in pubs and high-end restaurants. For a town known for its beer and weed, I was surprised to watch the shops and restaurants empty out by 9pm. What happened to the ‘Rocky Mountain High?’ When I queried the bartender, he shrugged his shoulders and said matter-of-factly, “It’s a healthy lifestyle choice. See those mountains out there? They enjoy their fun early so they can be out on the trails, rock-climbing, skiing, biking.” I suppose if I lived in this outdoor paradise, early bedtimes would call to me as well. After all, there’s no better high then Mother Nature.
In a nutshell:
3 trails to get your heart pumping when you first get to town:
- Blue Mesa Trail
- Flatiron One & Two
- Anemone Trail at Centennial Trailhead
3 breweries where you can get your hops fix posthaste:
- Mountain Sun. Favorite Brew: Big Krane Kolsch, or as they call it, “An excellent lawn-mowing beer”
- The Post. Favorite Brew: Meathooks(brown ale)
- Fate Brewing. Favorite Brew: Sudice Stout
3 chill eateries for cheap but delicious comfort food
- West End Tavern– finger-licking BBQ & open air rooftop, lively with a friendly vibe.
- Bartaco– Light airy space with choose your own taco selection. Lunch special $10 for 3 tacos and a yummy chopped salad. Great cocktails and beer selection.
- Community– A short 15 min drive to Lafayette. Large, lively bar, community table. Get the spicy Brussel Sprouts-best we had in Boulder, and that’s saying something as they are on almost every menu and we ordered them each time.
3 Don’t Miss Farm-to-Table Restaurants for fresh & innovative cuisine
- Wild Standard– Get the calamari, the crispy Brussel sprouts, the lobster capellini, but don’t go home without ordering the burger!
- Bramble and Hare– Loved the design of this small place, think Steampunk/Speakeasy. Very limited menu but everything is fresh and focused on meat and veggies from the farm. Wildly inventive cocktails.
- Blackbelly Market– May be my favorite. Sit at Chef’s Bar. Crazy portions of meat- be sure to go hungry. Go with the dry-aged short ribs served family style. Must try: Pig’s Ears.
3 Iconic Boulder A few experiences, there are many:
- Dragontree Spa– A full-service spa that transcends the usual.
- Dushanbe Tea House– Do NOT miss this gorgeous teahouse constructed and shipped as a gift to the US from Dushanbe, Tajikistan, a sister city to Boulder. An exotic menu, a lovely selection of teas.
- Cannabis Culture– get thee to a dispensary and see what all the fuss is about.
3 Favorite Local Shops for Boulder-made products
- Topo Designs– the best fitted flannel shirts EVER
- Mountain Standard
- Sea To Summit
Best Bookstore. Period.
- Boulder Bookstore– Three floors of wonderfully curated books from all genres. You will get lost in the warren of successive rooms, just as you should in the best bookstores. Staff is knowledgeable and their shelf recommendations are worth the trip in itself. Just voted Top 10 bookstore in US by Publishers Weekly.
Next Up: Boulder: Pt.II/Best day trips from Boulder